Section 4 - Optional
Lining: use the same instructions as in section one and section three however you may want to sew the wall panels in the same configuration as the 5 + 5 + 2 arrangement to the roof inner lining. Another configuration which I finally settled on was the 4 + 4 + 4 arrangement. This elimates the need to sort the panels at night, if they are seperate from the roof panel. When I made the lining of a light weight drappery poly, which is what I had on hand at the time, the weight was cut down, and I decided to connect this to the roof panel. Because the fabric was not the full width of 62 = inches for seam allowance and we are talking 1 inch per side for the French seam, I would have to get decorative. This allow me to overlap the opening seams by making decorative fabric panel to connect the main panels. This does allow for stengthing the lining so that there would be no seam at the point at the base for tie downs to the grounds pegs. By during it this way you will create a partial bug screen and wind guard thus keeping in more heat on those cold nights. Allow for extra materials at the end of configuration of the 5 + 5 + 2 or the 4 + 4 + 4 for storm guard. Apply the grommets where needed or tie downs. If using grommets attach a piece of fabric that does not rip as this is a stress point area, by making a tube approx a finish 3 inches wide. Close one end and turn than insert the grommet as per manufacture specifications. Please note make sure the gromment interior opening is large enough to accept the ground pin. The other method is to attach a piece of 6 lb leather in strips about 2 inches wide and approx 4 inches long, and make sure the hole that is punched at one end is large enough to accept the ground pin. As leather is a natural product it will dry out and will expand when wet. Make sure the hole is large enough to accept the ground pins and are loose enough so that one can retrive the ground pins without difficulty when taking down. And the final method, unless you love been on your knees is trying with laces to the pins, or you can use an elastic, heavy enough so that it does not snap in those wind action moves when the wind blows.
Drapery and room dividers
You may consider important, while other may consider it an option, but the advantage is rooms within this type of pavilion is possible. The spokes will act as drapery rods, and allows for room partitions. You may choose to buy or make your own at this stage. Below is the description of the pattern to make your own. Remember that the walls slope outwards, and a custom drape panel may be require, with a grommet at the base or elastic at the base of the triangular end will be required.
To calculate fabric, we will need to know the length of the radius at ground level. In this case it is 20 feet, and we will need the radius of the eve diameter – in this case 7 feet. No fabric is perfectly flat, and therefore we will need extra fabric to make the drape. Depending on style you choose we will need to at least add at least ½ of the measurement to that of the radius been the raduis is roughly 7 ft at the roof eve level. In the pleated style use double the amount of fabric on the roof diameter. In this case we are looking at 7 foot raduis across the top + amount for style, along with an additional 3 feet because of the sloping wall panels. Therefore we will have to assemble enough fabric together to make the drape. In this case for a pleated drape for one radius we will need 14 feet wide for one radius which equals 168 inches + the slope of 3 ft thus equaling 204 inches. Remember your seam allowances of 1 inch also for the french seam. If using a standard seam use 5/8 inch. Since most fabric is 60 inches wide we will need to divide this into 204 inches, which equals 3.4 panels width. This would be for a one pattern or solid color arrangement. If you wish to create smaller panels or known as veins you will require more fabric to make the same account of seam allownaces. Once we have determine how may panels we will need to multiply the height, x number of panels + seam allownances and hems and headers. In this case I used 4 inches for both the header and hem. Add these to the length and than subtract approx 2 inches off the total measurement (you do not want the drape to drag the ground). Therefore the 204 inches wide will equal four widths of fabric for pleated, by the length (actual height of this particular pavilion is 78 inches, but there will be a 4 inch bottom header and at least a 4 inch top header, therefore our length is actually with 2 inch subtraction 84 inches long. (Multiply 4 panel widths (pleated x length 84 inches) divide by 39.5 inches to equal meters. In this case for each partition we will require 8.5 for pleated. If you are using the ones that drop down on taps or gromments change panels to 3 x height formula mention above. All measuerments are based on fabric based on 60- inch widths. The wider the less panels require, the narrower the more panels required. Depending on type of rod pockets one may choose will determine if you will need extra fabric. I have seen two methods, one been straps with buttons and the other with large rings. The option I have used was the pleated design and I have used the tab method. It is your chose, but as for myself to keep cost down and ability to move drapery when the tent is set up, the strap and button method is probably the better option. If you decide to do a quick setup instead of using buttoms on can use Velcro.
Making the tab: One will cut a piece of fabric roughly 10 inches long x 4 inches wide. Make this into a tube, sew up one end and turn, than sew to close the other end. This is where you make the decision of either button or Velcro. If using button, now is the time to sew the button hole at the finish end, making sure the size button you use will fit through the opening smoothly, but not loose or tight. Next attach these tabs to the drapery panels. In the Velcro method, attach one Velcro 1 1/2 inch strip hook on the finish end of the tap, and the opposite piece of Velcro - loop - corresponding to position of tab, on the drappery panel.
In some cases, fabric is only finish on one side, and who wishes to look at a blank white fabric piece of fabric on the other side, when the side that shows is decorative. On some fabrics the color and or pattern will be on both sides, and the method describe above would work, but with ths stark back side of the fabric stairing bak at you, you may decide to make another drapery panel of a the same fabric, or if you choose a different pattern. To do this you will need to double the yardage of fabric, and of course make another complete drap and attach this to the first one made. Sew these drapes together finish inside and turn. Do not sew the bottom hems together, however do sew the drapery hem together. On the pleated ones where the pleats are match back and front, tack stitch at this point. You will also need to sew through the taps at one end on the drapery header through both the back and front panel.
Openings - These are up to you to where you wish to install your opening, but do not install the opening near the slope slide of the tent. Usually it is near the column, or you may choose to do it half way thus instead of making a 4 panel drape, you will be making a 2 panel drape.
Photos coming on this aspect of project soon.
Making the tab: One will cut a piece of fabric roughly 10 inches long x 4 inches wide. Make this into a tube, sew up one end and turn, than sew to close the other end. This is where you make the decision of either button or Velcro. If using button, now is the time to sew the button hole at the finish end, making sure the size button you use will fit through the opening smoothly, but not loose or tight. Next attach these tabs to the drapery panels. In the Velcro method, attach one Velcro 1 1/2 inch strip hook on the finish end of the tap, and the opposite piece of Velcro - loop - corresponding to position of tab, on the drappery panel.
In some cases, fabric is only finish on one side, and who wishes to look at a blank white fabric piece of fabric on the other side, when the side that shows is decorative. On some fabrics the color and or pattern will be on both sides, and the method describe above would work, but with ths stark back side of the fabric stairing bak at you, you may decide to make another drapery panel of a the same fabric, or if you choose a different pattern. To do this you will need to double the yardage of fabric, and of course make another complete drap and attach this to the first one made. Sew these drapes together finish inside and turn. Do not sew the bottom hems together, however do sew the drapery hem together. On the pleated ones where the pleats are match back and front, tack stitch at this point. You will also need to sew through the taps at one end on the drapery header through both the back and front panel.
Openings - These are up to you to where you wish to install your opening, but do not install the opening near the slope slide of the tent. Usually it is near the column, or you may choose to do it half way thus instead of making a 4 panel drape, you will be making a 2 panel drape.
Photos coming on this aspect of project soon.
Banner pole
See construction notes for banner pole
Porch
In designing a porch for this style of pavilion one must secure the spokes so that they do not pull out. On the ticker toy and on the spokes, one will have to drill a hole through the ticker toy through the spoke dowel. Do not drill all the way though the dowel. The diameter of these holes through the tinker toy should only be loose enough to hand fit the counter pins, and be able to remove the same. You may want to attach a small chain or twine to the counter pin and attach the other end to a number 8 pan head screw to the top side of the tinker toy so that these fitting will not be lost. On the dowel ends of the spokes - drill these slightly larger so that one does not have to spend all day trying to find the hole for the counter pin to be inserted. Do not drill this hole all the way through the dowel, as this will weakens it. Make sure that they are all measured in to the same distance for the pins as this will allow either spoke to be fitted into the ticker toy. Nothing like fumbling around at night trying to find the right spoke to fit into the holes of the ticker toy to accept the counter pins. When the pin is inserted, this will prevent the spoke dowel from been pulled out of the ticker toy when you attach the porch canvas to the pavilion itself. Now to the design.
This is rather easy to do, and what is require is to extend the radius of the tent to whatever length within reason, and recalculate the circumference to determine the base of the angle. Keep in mind that you will be working from the roof eve, not the ground measurement, for the small end. In this case the approx. 43 1/2 inch width. If our radius length is 18 ft than our base of the segment would be around (12 segments) 9ft 3 1/4 inches. You will most likely need three of these panels to make the canvas roof. The bing and drip edge would be around the outside of these sewn panels, less where it connects to the pavilion. So now that we determine our design, we can now determine the amount of fabric needed, and since most fabrics are 60 inches wide, we will have to sew two pieces of fabric to create the 9 foot 4 inch wide piece which is one panel. From here it is simple by using the division line (where you have sewn the fabric together) and make the slope sides. If the pavilion eve is 43 1/2 inches wide (per panel) and the radius at the roof is 7 ft 2 inches and you desire an area extending out to the 18 ft radius, it is just a matter of subtraction leaving the slope length of 10 ft 10 inches. Keep in mind to deduct the slope wall section to determine the floor area that is under the porch. In this case lets use 30 inches difference, which now leaves us a radius measurement in difference to the floor area 9 ft 4 inches. Lay out 1/2 of the pattern on paper and double check your measurements than transfer to fabric. One perpendicular side of the pattern will be lined up with the center line (the sewn seam of each of the panels). Add your 1 inch seam allowance to your seams and reinforcing of the edge. Than mirror the other side and you will come out with the roof porch panel. Depending on the number of panels, usually three, sew these together. Make sure all seam are french seams to reduce the chance of leakage from rain. Once sewn together install grommets to the points on the canvas. If three panels are used, you will need 8 grommets. Water proof the canvas.
Next step is the frame, and this primary consist of 4 dowels. You will be making these the same way as with the spokes, but with one difference. Drill a hole to receive an 8 to 10 inch headless spike at least 3 inches into the one end of dowel. Make sure the hole is tight fitting. Use some gorilla glue, and drive the headless spikes, the cut off head end first, so that the point is exposed. When the poles are setup, this will help to stabilize the pole into the ground and basically serve as a tent peg. Attach tie down ropes to each of the outer points of the canvas or you may wish to attach to the top end of the poles. The base end of the panel (wide end) or if you wish make provisions on the porch poles to accept the tie down ropes, but it is recommended to attach the tie down ropes to the canvas.
photos coming soon on this aspect of construction
Materials required for the porch
26 feet of 1 5/16 inch wooden dowel cut to 6 ft 6 inch length (you may use other measurements, but if you exceed the height of the roof eve, and in rain, it will run back towards the pavilion and puddle). There should always be a way for rain water to drain, and preferably away from the pavilion.
18.5 meters of canvas (assuming the canvas is 60 inches wide). This will make three roof panels as specified in the instructions above. If making larger or adding more roof panels this will affect the amount of fabric required.
4 finals, 4 1/4 inch furniture bolts, and 4 1/4 inch threaded inserts, 4 - 8 inch (min) spikes (3 panels only)
60 feet of min. 1/4 inch poly or nylon rope - cut into 4 equal lengths - these will be the tie down ropes. (3 panel porches only). If more roof panels add 15 feet of rope extra.
Pavilion modification to accept porch - 12 counter pins (option 6 ft of either twine or chain cut into 12 equal lengths and 12 1 inch number 8 screws for the anchors for the counter pins to the tinker toy).
Porch
In designing a porch for this style of pavilion one must secure the spokes so that they do not pull out. On the ticker toy and on the spokes, one will have to drill a hole through the ticker toy through the spoke dowel. Do not drill all the way though the dowel. The diameter of these holes through the tinker toy should only be loose enough to hand fit the counter pins, and be able to remove the same. You may want to attach a small chain or twine to the counter pin and attach the other end to a number 8 pan head screw to the top side of the tinker toy so that these fitting will not be lost. On the dowel ends of the spokes - drill these slightly larger so that one does not have to spend all day trying to find the hole for the counter pin to be inserted. Do not drill this hole all the way through the dowel, as this will weakens it. Make sure that they are all measured in to the same distance for the pins as this will allow either spoke to be fitted into the ticker toy. Nothing like fumbling around at night trying to find the right spoke to fit into the holes of the ticker toy to accept the counter pins. When the pin is inserted, this will prevent the spoke dowel from been pulled out of the ticker toy when you attach the porch canvas to the pavilion itself. Now to the design.
This is rather easy to do, and what is require is to extend the radius of the tent to whatever length within reason, and recalculate the circumference to determine the base of the angle. Keep in mind that you will be working from the roof eve, not the ground measurement, for the small end. In this case the approx. 43 1/2 inch width. If our radius length is 18 ft than our base of the segment would be around (12 segments) 9ft 3 1/4 inches. You will most likely need three of these panels to make the canvas roof. The bing and drip edge would be around the outside of these sewn panels, less where it connects to the pavilion. So now that we determine our design, we can now determine the amount of fabric needed, and since most fabrics are 60 inches wide, we will have to sew two pieces of fabric to create the 9 foot 4 inch wide piece which is one panel. From here it is simple by using the division line (where you have sewn the fabric together) and make the slope sides. If the pavilion eve is 43 1/2 inches wide (per panel) and the radius at the roof is 7 ft 2 inches and you desire an area extending out to the 18 ft radius, it is just a matter of subtraction leaving the slope length of 10 ft 10 inches. Keep in mind to deduct the slope wall section to determine the floor area that is under the porch. In this case lets use 30 inches difference, which now leaves us a radius measurement in difference to the floor area 9 ft 4 inches. Lay out 1/2 of the pattern on paper and double check your measurements than transfer to fabric. One perpendicular side of the pattern will be lined up with the center line (the sewn seam of each of the panels). Add your 1 inch seam allowance to your seams and reinforcing of the edge. Than mirror the other side and you will come out with the roof porch panel. Depending on the number of panels, usually three, sew these together. Make sure all seam are french seams to reduce the chance of leakage from rain. Once sewn together install grommets to the points on the canvas. If three panels are used, you will need 8 grommets. Water proof the canvas.
Next step is the frame, and this primary consist of 4 dowels. You will be making these the same way as with the spokes, but with one difference. Drill a hole to receive an 8 to 10 inch headless spike at least 3 inches into the one end of dowel. Make sure the hole is tight fitting. Use some gorilla glue, and drive the headless spikes, the cut off head end first, so that the point is exposed. When the poles are setup, this will help to stabilize the pole into the ground and basically serve as a tent peg. Attach tie down ropes to each of the outer points of the canvas or you may wish to attach to the top end of the poles. The base end of the panel (wide end) or if you wish make provisions on the porch poles to accept the tie down ropes, but it is recommended to attach the tie down ropes to the canvas.
photos coming soon on this aspect of construction
Materials required for the porch
26 feet of 1 5/16 inch wooden dowel cut to 6 ft 6 inch length (you may use other measurements, but if you exceed the height of the roof eve, and in rain, it will run back towards the pavilion and puddle). There should always be a way for rain water to drain, and preferably away from the pavilion.
18.5 meters of canvas (assuming the canvas is 60 inches wide). This will make three roof panels as specified in the instructions above. If making larger or adding more roof panels this will affect the amount of fabric required.
4 finals, 4 1/4 inch furniture bolts, and 4 1/4 inch threaded inserts, 4 - 8 inch (min) spikes (3 panels only)
60 feet of min. 1/4 inch poly or nylon rope - cut into 4 equal lengths - these will be the tie down ropes. (3 panel porches only). If more roof panels add 15 feet of rope extra.
Pavilion modification to accept porch - 12 counter pins (option 6 ft of either twine or chain cut into 12 equal lengths and 12 1 inch number 8 screws for the anchors for the counter pins to the tinker toy).
No comments:
Post a Comment