Section 3 - Fabric (Fabric measurements and layout)

Warning: (READ FIRST BEFORE ATTEMPTING Fabric Portion). This is very important. BEFORE GOING TO THIS STEP, pre setup the roof frame part of the medieval pavilion and check all measurements. It is far easilier to make measurement and measure ofter, before cutting of fabric. Make as many measurements and verify, but only cut once. Refer back to section 1 and review the information. If there is a different, please go back to section one and re calculate using the actual measurements of the frame to make the roof panels. This may also change the eve circumference measurement as well. Base measurement should remain the same, unless the eve circumference is larger than the base or unless you wish for a larger diameter tent. Calculations of the fabric are simple as most canvas type fabrics are 60 inches wide. Once the pavilion frame is setup - primary the roof section, let each spoke come to rest and block so as not to move and measure the distance between each spoke and record this measurement. Do not worry if they are not all the same distance at this time from each other on the eve circumferance. Measure from each spoke center to the other along the circumference and add these measurements together and divide by the number of spokes of the pavilion to have equal distances. This will verify the segment measurement at the roof eve before drawing the pattern. Now take a string and secure at one end - the upper center pole with a bolt installed into the insert, than make a loop at the other end were the roof will meet the eve. Check all spokes to see that the distance are of equal length. The length of the string is the perpendicular center line of the roof panel. With these measurements we can now make the outer roof panel pattern. Allow 1 inch for French seam ease allowance on either side. Draw up part of the wall panel - the upper part for the eve, and attach to the roof panel to complete the roof panel pattern. Most eves are 12 inches wide, and by having it as one piece with the roof panel, this will prevent possible leekage through the roof eve. You will need to draw the wall panel as well, to determine the eve panel.

If you wish – you can set up ½ of the framework for the tent to verify measurements. You only need the roof frame section for verifications of measurements.

Roof fabric calculations - Use the measurement of (Ai) vertical, and the width of the canvas known as (Bi). Used this measurement (Ai) x 6 and allow for seams and easement of the fabric. Also include the drip edge flap x 2 and x this by 6, if it is of the same materials. This will mean that every second panel will have a center seam. If you do not wish for a center seam than times the length including flap x 12. Once calculated divide by 39.5 inches to determine meters. Once this is calculated you will know the cost and amount of materials required for the pavilion. With inner lining and to achieve the draping effect add a min of 3 inches to the length, but do not exceed 5 inches.

Wall fabric calculations - Walls are easy to calculate. This is determine by the length (Ab) drop from the eve lined to the base. Add 10 inched to the base, as this is the mounting base to be tent pin to the group, and to allow for any differences in ground elevations, than times by the number of spokes (in this case 12) divide by 39.5 to obtain the meters. For inside lining add 2 to 5 inches more per panel.

Optional materials substitute for canvas - There is another material that is available and is somewhat lighter, and may be stronger than canvas, and it is definitely waterproof, and does come in white, for the better grade. These are called tarps and they are available up to 60 ft x 50 ft. (average cost 160.00 dollars). From calculations – one of these tarps will most likely do the walls, roof, and floor of this size pavilion. In keeping my cost down, I will be using this white poly bunal, fiberglass-reinforced tarp. This is the same material that is used on portable garages. From section one and section 2 we now draw up the full size pattern on paper (newsprint paper is the cheapest, and is at least 24 inches wide, and is available as newspaper ends from most newspaper publishers). Allow at least 1-inch seam allowance, as we will be doing French seams, to prevent leaks through the tent panels.

Lets begin with the materials list – Although I am not using canvas, I will be using fabric for the inner lining which uses the same volume of materials. Keep in mind that canvas materials can range and in priced by weight and thread count. Cost begins roughly at 8 dollars per meter and will range as high as 25.00 per meter. In my travels and contacts I have found a supplier in Edmonton, Alberta, that sells sail canvas at 12.00 per meter. If you wish to pay the goof ball duties and taxes and broker’s fees, it is available from Seattle, WA. 

Tools required

A HEAVY DUTY sewing machine, - you can do it be hand, but it will take forever.

A Good sharp pair of scissors – one you are comfortable with. A disk cutter can be used, but you will need a very large cutting mat.

Good quality 3 ply thread.

Materials

This list is for use for canvas and inner liner (optional) and is met for the tent that is decided here within

Quantity                                  material                                              

22 meters                                 18 oz sail canvas (roof) 2nd roof panels have center seams

31 meters                                 18 oz sail canvas (walls)

Optional (no center seams) roof – you will have lots of waste unless materials is 70 inches wide. If so it will only take 22 meters.

44 meters                                 18 oz sail canvas (roof)

54                                            Large grommets

6000 meter roll             Poly 3 ply thread (you may only use half of the roll but it is far less expensive than buying small spools.

Velcro sew on min ¾ inch (used for entrances)

1 entrance will used 2 ½ meters of the hook and 2 ½ meters of the hair. Multiply this by number of entrances you are using.

There are numerous suppliers that sell the above fabric list of  materials and notions, and as such they are not all  listed here except for the  store locations of Fabricland. http://www.fabricland.ca/

           

Note if you are making inner panels add 2 meters to the above measurements. All fabric here is assumed to be 60 inches wide. Verify measurements of frame according to design calculation before cutting fabric. Measure as often as you want, but cut once!

Now that we have our pattern, and our fabric, it is time to cut the fabric, but please remember the 1-inch seam allowance on all sides. Once the fabric is cut, it is time to sew the fabric together. You may want to reinforce the seam ends where the dowels come in contact with the fabric. These are basically 6 x 6 inch squares for the reinforcing. Note on some medieval tents, instead of the finales, pockets are made out of these reinforcements to secure the dowels. I prefer the finale method, as it allows a couple of wall panels to be removed on hot sunny days, giving a form of a porch. The pocket method will not give you this opportunity ready easily. In constructing the wall panels they will be sewn in a configuration of 5 + 5 + 2 panels. This will allow for cross circulation of air on those hot days and to give the added feature of a built in porch, and is easier for installing the wall panels. Instead of handling 63 feet + of fabric, it will cut this down to about 25 feet of fabric per section with the front 2 panels roughly 10 feet.

The tent roof will be made of 12 panels if full panels, otherwise sew the 12 ½ roof panels to form the 6 remaining full roof panels giving 12 roof panels. This will get tricky, as each seam will have to be French seamed before sewing on the next roof panel. You may wish to make to halves than sew the two halves together. Place at least a 6 x 6 reinforcing panel where are seams intersect at middle of the roof panel. This is where the roof is center on the upper middle pole. Note: If drip edge is a separate piece to the roof panel, sew these together as one strip, then fold the panel in half so that it is at least 12 inches wide and baste stitch. The drip edge will be made from a min. 24-inch wide band. This band will be the total length of all 12-eve segments. That means it will be roughly 63 feet long and 12 inches wide. Sew this to the completed roof panel with a French seam. When all sewing is done on the roof panel, it is time to apply the grommets at the key points of where the dowel ends come in contact the fabric. Make sure the grommets have some ease allowance and able to accept a ¼ inch bolt. You will need one at the center and 12 along eve circumference (the eve where the drip edge begins) equally spaced.

The wall panels will be slightly easier to handle. Sew two 5-panel units and one 2-panel unit. All narrow ends to the trapezoid (Bi) should all be at the top. Use French seams on the side seams. Two reinforce the top end, fold at least 1 inch over and stitch after the middle seams are completed. Now add ground skirting; a 5-inch strip at the bottom (base), which is folded from 10 inches of fabric and stitch to the wall panels. After sewing of the wall panels is completed. Fold the outer seams at the end of each unit and stitch. Here we will attach the Velcro. Velcro is not exactly historically accurate, but it is lot easier to close the opening entrances at night or whenever. Our wall unit is now completed except for the grommets. You will need a grommet for each wall seam at the eve line, and also one at each seam on the base with the exception of one in the middle at base line. Therefore with 3 units; 15 grommets at the eve line, and 27 grommets at the base line. The extra grommets in the middle will allow you to secure the tent better to the ground, and prevent the wind from lifting. I have seen this lifting on tents, and it is not pretty, as this acts like a parachute and in some cases can flip a tent over.

Tip: You may wish to apply 1-foot lengths of Velcro on both the roof eve and the wall panels in the middle to give extra support and insurance against the winds. 

Tip: When installing the grommets on the bottom of the wall panels – base line, you should not install than on the base seam but rather at least one inch down from the base line of the ground skirting.