Section 3 Pavilion Construction (Setup and weather proofing)

This is the fun section as we will marriage section 1 and 2.

Supposedly you have made the frame, the easy part, and you have made the fabric shell for the pavilion. First lay the frame out on the ground starting with the rafters, than the top supports and the wall supports (uprights). Next take a 3-inch length ¼ inch carriage bolt, and a fender washer, and insert through the eyes of the eye screws. There should be five eyes you will insert it through. Begin with the roof rafter first, than the two top supports, and finally the two wall uprights. Place the second fender washer on than the wing nut. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE WING NUT, just bring it up onto the first ¾ inch of the carriage bolt. Do all six or eight connection the same way. Next take the 3/8 inch x 4 inch length (6 inch length if using the inner roof panel) carriage bolt (Crown bolt) and a fender washer and insert through all six or eight eyes and insert fender washer and wing nut. You may have to move the rafters a bit to place this bolt in.

Now take the roof canvas and drape it over the roof frame, and secure with the ties at the top supports. (these may be ties or Velcro ties). If you are applying the inner roof panel, now is the time to do so. Insert through the center hole of the inner panel onto the crown bolt and place on electrical cover, than the half of the slack adjustor bolt that contains the hook. This will act to hold a lantern (BATTERY  POWER). Do not attach the inter ceiling panel to perimeter of pavilion.

Through many of setups I have found it rather difficult to find help in setting up these type of tents, but through the mother of invention, I have come up with an ingenuous idea that works. I call it a dead hand. If you decided to use this method, make the dead hand half the height of the pavilion or less as trying to lift the whole frame in one movement may damage the frame. The dead hand can be made of a 1x 2 however I suggest a 2x2 and two length roughly a foot long of a 1x2 that will be placed at one end of the 2x2; 6 inches attached to either side of the 2x2 to form something that looks like a tuning fork. Place a dead hand at each intersect point and work around the perimeter of the top support till you get back to where you started, than proceed to lift it all the way. The dead hands should fall off the frame once the frame is in final position. Now if you are lucky enough to have friends or your household to help. (The traditional way was to have a person at each intersect point and lift up at the same time) It can be done with ½ the amount of people by placing your lifters in the middle of the triangular support, for each alternating wall support (see Photo).

Once your frame is lifted, spike the point of the triangle to the ground using an 8in nail, through the chain link. Use a fender washer next to the nail head as this makes it easier to pull the nails (tent pins) out of the ground. During construction of the frame, where the hinge is on the wall frame, attach a piece of leather or chain and screw to end of 2x2 along with a piece of chain approx 6 links long. See photo. The nails in the ground will secure the pavilion from collapsing in the wind.

Once the frame is up, begin at the doorway if one large panel and begin to tie your wall panels to the top support. Once the wall panels are secure to the top support, than insert the 2x2 (same length as the top supports through the pockets and tie to the wall supports (uprights) Once your tent is secure against wind you are prepare to go into the optional package of the rain shield, and inner wall panel. If you decide not to make any of the interior options, I do recommend that you do make the rain shield, as we do occasionally experience heavy rain down pours at some of the events. Additional with the fender washer on the nail it is easier to pull the nail out with a bar or hammer.

When during the first set up of the pavilion, leave the rain shield off, and paint or spray on a weather protector (water proofing chemical) approx 2 gals. As this will aid in protecting your tent and items you have inside. Some people say use Thompson Water Seal. It might work, but this product does wear down, and may need to be applied many times to function as a proper waterproofing. Depending on the type of material that is used in the fabric, there are two type of water proofing agents available from Woods Tent products (Canadian Tire). One is for natural canvas, the other is for synthetic. Depending on materials that you used will dictate which one. This product is roughly 40 dollars a gal, but does not have to be re applied for at least a couple of years for the roof and a lot longer for the walls. If done right the water should bead.

The optional package of the inner wall can now be attached and the optional inner roof panel that was installed at the beginning of setup can be tie to the top supports thus completing your pavilion, and hopefully many years of enjoyment.

The next step is placing your carpet and your furniture (beds, chests, tables, and chairs) and move in.

I do recommend a tarp before placing carpet, as a good tarp (the blue ones work and are cheap to purchase) will prevent the ground moisture from creeping in and also a number of insects that may be living beneath your feet. Remember this is your home away from home for at least three days if not longer.