Six and eight sided Star Pavilions

It should be noted that through experience with both these styles I have found that the eight side star pavilion is more stable when subjected to windy conditions. I have provided both methods within these instruction to construct either one.

The section on star pavilions is broken into three separate sections, follow by a photo gallery showing the steps in set up of the pavilion.

Section 1 Framing of Pavilions

A view of two tents: of which Christiana has built both of, one been octagon (brown tent) the other hexagon (white tent). This article will be done in three sections, as there is a lot of reference materials and diagrams to put into the newsletter to cover the construction of these pavilions. In my experience I have found that the eight-side pavilion is more stable and seems to have more usable space verse the six sided. In the first section I will cover the construction of the frame. Note: that this is not a period tent, but does look suitable our game.

I should mention that it is nice to have a bench saw for cutting the wood to make this frame. The first is to make or acquire 2 x 2 of fairly clear grain materials – in other wards stay away from large knots in soft wood materials, as this will weaken the members that you will be using to make the frame.

Materials list (eight sided):

Roof:  16 pcs  2 x 2 - length on dia.

Walls: 16 pcs 2 x 2 - length on dia.

32 eye screws at least 2 ½ in length

1    3/8  3 in carriage bolt, 2 fender washers and 3/8 nut.

8        ¼ in x 3 in carriage bolts

16        fender washers

8          ¼ in wing nuts

2 ft       chain and 16 no 12 1¼ inch pan head screws.

Optional: Slack bolts 3/8 adjusters, (keep the hook part). 1 electrical cover plate.

2-liters of paint or stain and sandpaper.

Tools required: for making frame

If ripping materials (wood) a bench saw or radial arms saw will do, other wise purchase from the lumberyard 2 x 2 s –8ft lengths for the frame at roughly 2.50ea.

A handsaw, or cross cut saw to cut the 2 x 2 to length. A drill and a 1/8 in drill bit to pilot drill a hole at either end of the 2 x 2. Sandpaper 100 grit, to take off the edges of the 2 x 2 so one does not get slivers from the wood, a paint brush, to paint the members (your choice of color) to help prevent the materials from twisting or warping do to weather elements.

Lets begin:

You have already acquired the materials to make the frame, lets begin, but at this time I will mention that I will be speaking of the eight-sided pavilion, although these instruction will work for the six-sided pavilion. The first is to draw a diagram of the frame to scale which helps in determining the lengths of the members to be cut. Keep in mine that you will only be putting in the eye screws to about 1 ¼ inch in which it allows the members to have flexibility for setting up. This will be cover later.

On a ¼ inch graft paper begin drawing the size of what the tent will be. I suggest using ¼ in equal 1 ft scale. Use a compass to draw the circle to whatever size you wish, but please keep in mind that 2 x 2 s are only 8 ft long, thus restricting you to about 15 ft diameter. Next is to draw lines at  0, 45, 90, degrees and so on, from the center point of the circle to the circumference line. Then where these lines intersect draw lines to form the tangents. (A-A) This sets our length for top rail of our tent, where the wall supports and the roof supports meet. The next step is to determine the height that you wish to make the frame at. This is simply done by measuring down from the top rail support to the ground i.e. 7 ft . Place a dot on your paper at the middle point of the top support and measure down. Than draw the diagonal lines to form a triangle sides (B-B). Measure the length of these sides to determine the lengths to cut. The next is to draw an elevation of the tent so as to determine the length of the roof rafter support. (C-C) If your tent is 15 ft across than you will need at least a 7ft 6in roof support to form the triangle.  (See diagram)

Once diagram is drawn and measurements have been determine, subtract 3 inches from the top supports, roof rafter, and 1 ½ in from the wall supports for the ease allowance of the eye screws.

After measuring and cutting the wood members, and painting, place one eye screw at either end for the roof rafters and top supports, and one eye screw per wall support upright. The bottom of the wall supports shall be connected with a chain to allow for anchoring to the ground and hinging (see diagram 4)

In the next newsletter I will guide you through the canvas that is required to cover the tent. The brown tent took about 300 dollars in cost to build the support frame and covering. The cost of the frame without paint or stain (stain approx 20.00) is about 104.00 dollars.

Also in the second insert I will cover, inner panels both roof and walls, and rain shield. The third insert will include set up instructions, and weatherproofing.

 

_{Diagram of framing pattern for Eight-sided pavilion} 

_{Red- BB                                    2x2 – rafter}

_{Green – AA                                2x2 – top support}

_{Brown – CC                               2x2 – wall risers}

This diagram is not to scale, but will give you an idea of the layout required to calculate the frame measurements.

_{Six sided also known as a star pavilion}

_{This uses the 60-degree separation of the circle}

_{AA  green  top support}

_{BB  red     rafter}

_{CC brown  wall support}

_{Diagram 3 shows insert of eye screw into 2x2 required for all connections unless using option diagram 5.}

_{Diagram 4 shows chain attachment at bottom of wall support 2x2}

Diagram 5 – this bracket may be available but from my understanding Simpson Strong Tie no longer makes them. Note this bracket is for a six-sided pavilion, not yet made for the eight-sided pavilion. If you can craft your own I have included a diagram in figure 5 and 5a. Please note 16 ga x 10 3/4in. dia. gav metal will be required to make this bracket. This bracket is an option, and I made mention of it, where it can be substituted where all the rafters meet in the center (note only for a six sided pavilion)

For the more advance crafts person, and in order to reduce space, you may substitute full 1 1/8 inch x 1 1/8 inch oak or maple for the framework. This will mean that for convenience it will take less space when transporting and storage, and is less likely to warp. Please also note, that if you wish to purchase the frame, it can be made available.

Section 2 Star Pavilion Fabric - cutting pattern, calculations and details

Walls

By now I am hoping that you might have made the frame, either the six sided or the eight sided. From my experience I have used the technique of the painter canvas and of using stock fabric materials. The best one I have found to work with and seems to resist mold is the polyester canvas, as this material seems not to support fungus growth. With cotton (real canvas, or painter canvas, if it gets wet and is not properly dried, it will support fungus, and yes your pavilion will turn green).

Before we begin, diagrams for the painter canvas technique is provided below, however I will talk about roll stock. Note if you decide to go painter canvas, make sure the seams are well sewn as these factory seams are very poorly constructed. The average cost of painter’s canvas 12ft x 14ft is about 30.00 ea when on sale, but normally are about 45.00 ea. Also when it gets wet it will shrink. If you decide to go painter’s canvas it will take 4 of them to make the six-sided tent, it is probably the same for the eight sided, but I have used the roll stock for my eight-sided pavilion.

Easy calculation for the walls. Take the members length (Top support) with the screws and measure to the outside of the ring of the eye screw. This will give you the ease allowance for shrinkage, but not the seam allowance. See diagram for seam. Allow at least one inch per side for sewing ease allowance. YOU WILL NEED A STRONG SEWING MACHINE TO MAKE THESE SEAMS. Do not use your fancy sewing machines as this amount of material could damage your expensive machine. Usually it is the tension that goes.

_{Diagram of cutting layout for star pavilion on 12ft x 14ft painter’s canvas}

To determine roll stock material and Velcro (i.e. – 8 x 5ft (outside ring) +8 joints x 2 inches { 1 in. ease allowance on each side of panel – fabric is 60 inch wide} = length x height.

(8x5ft) + (8x 2inch)  = 40ft + 16 inches

           5 ft                                5ft

41 ft 4 inches = 9 panels

        5ft

You will have 56 inches x height left over. This will be used for your pockets. Now to determine the amount of meters for your walls

9 panels x height = meters

            39.58

9 x 84inch = 756 inches = 19.1 meters

39.58                          39.58

Sometimes Fabric land (Canadian Fabric discount store) puts fabric on sale for its members up to 50% off. If you are fortunate to hit one of these sales the polyester canvas which does look like real canvas up close, but drapes a lot nicer than real canvas is about 6.98 / meter = 133.31 dollars. We now have our walls. After assembling the panels (make two panels – 4 panels + to allow for easier erecting and taking down. You will need 8 x top support length for the Velcro. In this case 40ft. of hook and 40 ft of loop. The back closure, and front closure can also be done in Velcro, which will add about another 15 ft to the order. If you can purchase the Velcro at 1 in width and by the roll (75 ft per roll) it will be cheaper. I have manage to purchase a roll of loop and a roll of hook for 10 dollars each. Sew the Velcro to the top edge of your panels. You may use Velcro to secure the top of the wall panel to the top rail, but I recommend that a couple of laces be sewn onto the canvas so that the canvas can be tied to the top rail and to prevent the un zipping of the wall panel. Place the laces as near the openings as possible and at every intersection point that the top rails meet with the wall supports and rafters.

Now to stop the wind from blowing up the canvas, and to save time in pinning the canvas down, I borrow an idea off the Viking tents, and that is make a bottom pocket so as to place a 2x2 through the pocket and secure to the uprights with laces at the hinge points.

Roof panel.

The easies way to determine the roof panel is to take the top support and the two rafters and bolt than together through the eyes so as to determine the triangle that is required. Make a pattern from this and place one edge of the selvage of the fabric when it comes time to cut. Remember the 1-inch ease allowance for sewing. Because of the width of the fabric been 60 inches the max. I have found that a person can obtain is up to five feet wide, although if you play around with the pattern in laying it out, you may be able to increase this size, which is the base of the triangle. To determine amount of materials you will need the side of the triangle x panels, divided 2 + ½ panel length

8-sided tent

7 ft 6 inch length of side of triangle x 8 divided x 2 + ½ the length of side

side of triangle x 8 + ½ side triangle

            2

7ft 6 inches x 8 + 3 ft 9 inches

            2

30 ft +3ft 9inches = 33ft 9 inches x 12

                                       39.58

405 inches divided 39.58 = 10.23 meters

cost would be 10.23 x 6.98meter = 71.41

Drip cap

Now we have one more piece of fabric to calculate for and that is for the drip edge. Note the drip edge should be at least 7.5 inches in width.

Remember that the fabric is 60 inches wide. This will give you 4 pieces for the width. Here we take the top support measurement to the middle of the eye of the eyebolt + 1 inch ease allowance. In this case we will use 5ft x 8 = 40ft therefore we are looking at 4 pieces 10ft 2 inches long.

10ft 2 inches x 12 = 3.082 meters

         39.58

Inner panels

This is where you can apply your taste depending on what persona you choose, and yes with the inner panel your pavilion will hold heat longer. Use the wall instructions to determine yardage to make the inner panels and if you wish to make this panel in strips of fabric divide the number by 2 if using 2 panel strips to determine yardage required. Construction is similar, but instead of a Velcro strip at the top. Make ties out of Velcro on 2ft 6 in centers so that it can be attached to the top rail. The roof panels, increase the length of the triangle sides by about 5 inches to give the Arabian knights effect. When assemble together cut the center point to create a hole, so that the slack bolt hook can be screw into the center bolt. Before bolting place the electrical circular plate which helps to keep the fabric in place. See photos in Section three which shows this procedure.

When assembling the inner roof panel add the drip edge also but it does not have to be 7.5 inches, it only has to be 4 inches and Velcro ties again on 2ft 6-inch centers. I have found that light color nylon works very nice for a roof panel and will act as rain protection in light rain if the waterproofing of the tent fails.

Rain shield

This can be made from heavy vinyl plastic roll stock and canvas drip edging. The vinyl will allow the rain to be shed and the canvas drip edging is used with ropes at the intersecting points to tie down to the ground. You will need gourmets installed at these points to tie the rain shield down in case of wind.

 Panel roof pattern diagram for the eight side pavilion,  and seam

Cross section detail of star pavilion and details of inner wall panel section

Section 3 Pavilion Construction (Setup and weather proofing)

This is the fun section as we will marriage section 1 and 2.

Supposedly you have made the frame, the easy part, and you have made the fabric shell for the pavilion. First lay the frame out on the ground starting with the rafters, than the top supports and the wall supports (uprights). Next take a 3-inch length ¼ inch carriage bolt, and a fender washer, and insert through the eyes of the eye screws. There should be five eyes you will insert it through. Begin with the roof rafter first, than the two top supports, and finally the two wall uprights. Place the second fender washer on than the wing nut. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE WING NUT, just bring it up onto the first ¾ inch of the carriage bolt. Do all six or eight connection the same way. Next take the 3/8 inch x 4 inch length (6 inch length if using the inner roof panel) carriage bolt (Crown bolt) and a fender washer and insert through all six or eight eyes and insert fender washer and wing nut. You may have to move the rafters a bit to place this bolt in.

Now take the roof canvas and drape it over the roof frame, and secure with the ties at the top supports. (these may be ties or Velcro ties). If you are applying the inner roof panel, now is the time to do so. Insert through the center hole of the inner panel onto the crown bolt and place on electrical cover, than the half of the slack adjustor bolt that contains the hook. This will act to hold a lantern (BATTERY  POWER). Do not attach the inter ceiling panel to perimeter of pavilion.

Through many of setups I have found it rather difficult to find help in setting up these type of tents, but through the mother of invention, I have come up with an ingenuous idea that works. I call it a dead hand. If you decided to use this method, make the dead hand half the height of the pavilion or less as trying to lift the whole frame in one movement may damage the frame. The dead hand can be made of a 1x 2 however I suggest a 2x2 and two length roughly a foot long of a 1x2 that will be placed at one end of the 2x2; 6 inches attached to either side of the 2x2 to form something that looks like a tuning fork. Place a dead hand at each intersect point and work around the perimeter of the top support till you get back to where you started, than proceed to lift it all the way. The dead hands should fall off the frame once the frame is in final position. Now if you are lucky enough to have friends or your household to help. (The traditional way was to have a person at each intersect point and lift up at the same time) It can be done with ½ the amount of people by placing your lifters in the middle of the triangular support, for each alternating wall support (see Photo).

Once your frame is lifted, spike the point of the triangle to the ground using an 8in nail, through the chain link. Use a fender washer next to the nail head as this makes it easier to pull the nails (tent pins) out of the ground. During construction of the frame, where the hinge is on the wall frame, attach a piece of leather or chain and screw to end of 2x2 along with a piece of chain approx 6 links long. See photo. The nails in the ground will secure the pavilion from collapsing in the wind.

Once the frame is up, begin at the doorway if one large panel and begin to tie your wall panels to the top support. Once the wall panels are secure to the top support, than insert the 2x2 (same length as the top supports through the pockets and tie to the wall supports (uprights) Once your tent is secure against wind you are prepare to go into the optional package of the rain shield, and inner wall panel. If you decide not to make any of the interior options, I do recommend that you do make the rain shield, as we do occasionally experience heavy rain down pours at some of the events. Additional with the fender washer on the nail it is easier to pull the nail out with a bar or hammer.

When during the first set up of the pavilion, leave the rain shield off, and paint or spray on a weather protector (water proofing chemical) approx 2 gals. As this will aid in protecting your tent and items you have inside. Some people say use Thompson Water Seal. It might work, but this product does wear down, and may need to be applied many times to function as a proper waterproofing. Depending on the type of material that is used in the fabric, there are two type of water proofing agents available from Woods Tent products (Canadian Tire). One is for natural canvas, the other is for synthetic. Depending on materials that you used will dictate which one. This product is roughly 40 dollars a gal, but does not have to be re applied for at least a couple of years for the roof and a lot longer for the walls. If done right the water should bead.

The optional package of the inner wall can now be attached and the optional inner roof panel that was installed at the beginning of setup can be tie to the top supports thus completing your pavilion, and hopefully many years of enjoyment.

The next step is placing your carpet and your furniture (beds, chests, tables, and chairs) and move in.

I do recommend a tarp before placing carpet, as a good tarp (the blue ones work and are cheap to purchase) will prevent the ground moisture from creeping in and also a number of insects that may be living beneath your feet. Remember this is your home away from home for at least three days if not longer.

6 and 8 Sided Star Pavilion Setup.

Note: When making this style of tent before making the roof and wall panel it is advisable to set up the roof frame and take measurements, before cutting the fabric out for assembly of the roof panel. This will allow for proper fit of the roof, and will also allow for water proofing of the canvas if the canvas is not already waterproofed.

 Assembling of the roof frame before installing the roof canvas. The wall frames must also be assemble at this time also. Do not tighten the 1/4 inch carriage bolts. These bolts should be at 3 inches in length, to allow for hinging action when standing the frame up. For ease use 1/4 inch wing nuts as this allows one not to have to carry tools off and on site, although sometimes a pair of need nose piers do come in handy. The center pin should be at least 3/8 inch dia. and roughly 4 inches long. A fender washer at top and bottom will secure this center pin. For the hing bolts (carriage bolts) it will require two fender washers and a wing nut. In arranging the frame, start with laying out the frame than at each point begin with the rafter, followed by the lateral side frame, than the wall frame. One fender washer on top, the other on the bottom. DO NOT TIGHTEN THESE AS THIS ALLOWS FOR THE WALL FRAME TO HINGE DOWNWARD when setup.

 Layout the roof canvas and stretch to the lateral frame supports. Occasionally tie one of the ties to the hing point for once setup, if Windy the canvas may be blown off. It should be tied at each point. Note it is advisable to have a center tie in between each of the hinge points, but these can be tied later.

 Once the tent roof panel is secured the frame is ready to be stood up. Note - you do not need six people to eight people to set one of these up. To make life a little easier, you will need three people for the six side and four people for the eight sided to setup. Each person to stand in the center of the wall triangle alternating to every second triangle. When (people in position 1, 3, 5 - for the six sided pavilion) and (1, 3, 5, 7 for the eight sided pavilion) setting up the position of lateral frame member 2,4,and 6 and with the eight sided 8 will automatically go up. 

 Here Kasper and Karla are tieing down the middle ties of the roof panel to the star frame, before installing the wall panels. When making the roof panel I have found Velcro to be very helpful in securing the wall panels. It is advisable to have a few ties on the wall panel to aid in support while one connects the wall panels to the roof panel. Note when making the wall panels divide the tent outside per minter into two, and make to the length allowing an extra foot for each panel so as to be able to close the entrances.

 This is an important step - PLEASE SECURE YOUR TENT TO THE GROUND using tent pegs and or long nails at least 8 inch length. I have seen so many of these tents fail in windy conditions in a total collapse. Therefore use a tent peg at each junction of the triangle where it meets the ground. Once this is done it can take upwards to 60kw gusts. Remember these do act like sails.

 Here is a view of the tent pin made of one 8 inch nail, and a fender washer, inserted through a chain tag into the ground. The fender washer serves to purposes. One to make the nail head larger in aid of supporting the frame from been kicked of its anchor, and two for easy pulling using a hammer craw.

 Once all frame is secured along with the roof canvas, it is now time to install the wall panels.

 Shown here is the center pin of the star tent rafters where the intersect. There is other methods of securing the center and one of these is is the star pavilion hexagon metal frame support made by Simpson's. This part is sometimes hard to find, but check the hardware stores, as they may sometime have one in stock. From my dealings I understand that Simpson's Fasteners no longer makes this part.

 Shown here is two six sided pavilions and the brown one is the eight sided pavilion. The walls are now in stalled and ready for the next step. The next step is optional, but does give a nice effect, and in the early spring or fall does act as an insulator on those cold nights. Not shown, but on the wall at the bottom are made pockets to insert a wood member sightly shorter than the lateral supports to hold down the canvas when the wind is blowing.

 The inner panels is shown here and is optional. Ties at the top of the roof panels and wall panels are made of Velcro, and allows for easy setup and tear down. Start with the wall panels first, follow by the roof panel. The roof panel will also act as further insurance to prevent any leaks from making your items wet in the tent when it rains.

Note: If you are having trouble in setting up this style of tent please check instruction above. If there is another problem and wish for further instruction contact Lady Christiana Elizabeth Constable at email pheasant01@yahoo.com. It may take a couple of weeks to get back to you after I have viewed the problem listed from your email.

Bed Chamber Furniture and other Camp Furniture for Elizabethan re-creation and anachronism

This type of furniture is optional as regular camp furniture is available from Canadian Tire or and Walmart

 Furniture specially made for medieval tent pavilions - The bedchamber furniture is designed to be taken down and moved easily to campsites and back to storage. To the far left is the wardrobe storage chest which when stacked create the total cabinet. This unit breaks down into three units, and is easily transported to camp out events. The foot chest in front of the bed holds the items to make the encampment complete with candle holders, and lamps and serves as an extra seating. The bed itself breaks down into easily transported items, that can be quickly assemble once reaching the site. At the time when the bed frame was made it was to hold an air mattress, but since than been replaced with a foam mattress.

Another view of the bedchamber furniture, but this time with the foot chest open to reveal the velvet lining. Originally this foot chest was going to be used for rapier equipment, but the decision was later made to use the chest for storage of small items used in recreating the middle ages - Tudor Elizabethan era.

To keep the weight down on all the furniture, shaker panel construction is used with the panels been of 1/8 inch oak plywood. To reinforce for transportation; the end panels on the wardrobe cabinets are made of 3/4 inch oak panels. All rails were either made of 3/4 inch oak stock lumber, or of 3/4 inch oak plywood. The bed rails made to look like shaker panels is made of 1/4 inch plywood with 3/4 in plywood glue to the 1/4 inch plywood to give strength and keep the weight down. The 5/8 inch plywood slats are supported by 1 inch x 1/8 inch angle iron and screwed into the bed rails. This add extra support for two people, and helps to prevent the long bed rails from warping. The headboard is made of 4 pieces that interlock together to create the total headboard.

The bed rails were bolted to the post, but have been changed to be interlocking, with this design change it  takes roughly five minutes to set up at a campsite. Bed hook hardware and table leg slide hardware is available from Lee Valley.

The cabinets and bed were made from left over materials that were laying around the shop, but if one chooses to use the same materials that I used, the cost for new materials is around five hundred dollars.

To move this type of furniture along with the tent one needs a 1/2 ton to move these items to and from medieval events. If traveling by car, the tent will fit, however this furniture will not, and from what I have seen at a number of medieval events, one could use portable camp furniture. It may not be medieval in appearance but is available and easy to transport.

Bed shown with canopy

Stackable clothing and linen chest

Gustonbury Chairs and reclaimed brassed table - set up in the sitting chamber - one of three chambers in the 12 spoke Medieval pavilion

Shown here is the kitchen setup for food processing and cooking for the household of Phasiani lacus Manerium. Here set up it is tested for size to fit the 12 spoke Medieval pavilion (Kitchen chamber). Tables and cookery equipment are of non Medieval design, but rather made for serviceable setup and take down with min. effort. The tables are cut with rounded corners and is trimed with a rubber trim to prevent injury from bumping into the edge, and to also prevent spintering of the plywood edges. Two keep weight down the tables, chest and chest stands are made of spruce. The two chest hold dry goods for cooking along with pot and pans. The sink was re used from a pervious job salvage. In making these items the cost was less a hundred dollars, excluding cooler (blue) Coleman stove, and the grill (black and white).

Medieval and Star Pavilion Tent Construction

This site will be constructed over the next few months as materials and information is downloaded to this site from my personal files.